Sleeping with the enemy
What better way is there to be a bleeding heart liberal than to occasionally sleep with the enemy? It is for this reason that Mr Robinson, who is categorically not Scottish, has decided to pay tribute to that weave-mad tribe. Mr Robinson, chef and proprietor of the Corner Post Bar and Dining Room, who (have we mentioned this?) is not Scottish, you will see, dear Reader, is utterly liberal. Which is, of course, really just another way of suggesting that he is English.
A sort of a recipe for Shin or Leg of Beef (Potted Hough)
“Take a hough and bash it well with an axe. No’ just break it, but have at it, till the pieces are no bigger than a wee hen’s egg.” Mr Robinson denies that this treatment of a shin had anything to do with his love for the bonny lass who graced him with this recipe. We continue. “Pack it into an iron pot with brown papery skins of onions, two or three peppercorns and a blade of mace. Just cover with water, set on the lid tightly, and let it stew for a few hours at least. When the meat is away from the bone, tilt it into a colander, strain the liquid back into the saucepan, and let it gallop while you are gathering the meat from the broken bones. Then press the meat into a basin with straight sides, and when the meat is all in, fill up with the liquid and set aside till cold.” She then went on to say that ” It should be stiff. If it no’ sets stiff, you must reduce again for it should be stiff as glue.” A lot of things then happen to this stiff meat which we cannot write here due to constrained circumstances. But let it be known that it ends up being a type of brawn, only much firmer. In the end one knows that you have done the right sorts of things if “All o’ mine want no more than twa - three slices o’ potted hough, and a well of baked taties, and a fresh lettuce and mustard - maybe twa - three pickles would go wi’ it well - and a tankard of ale - ‘twill fill them fine - ‘tis all guid meat” She was the mother of four champion blacksmiths and, hence, knew what was strengthening. Even though Mr Robinson only wears his kilt under very particular conditions, we must not underestimate the intractable influence of a few years living in the highlands, wrapped in tartan.
(Quotes taken from Dorothy Hartley’s Food in England, 1979)
Featuring on the menu this week:
- Spicy prawn soup with yoghurt and coriander
- Chicken liver salad with bacon and baby spinach
- Roast stuffed red pepper with tomato, basil, feta and tapenade toasts
- Smoked salmon parcels (filled with smoked salmon mousse)
- Potato gnocchi with bacon, oyster mushrooms, parsley and garlic
- Poached gammon with fried apples, mash and mustard
- Grilled leg of lamb with spiced brinjal salad and mint
- Fillet of Norwegian salmon with black bean dressing and coriander
- Char-grilled Greenfields steak with chips and bearnaise
- Ginger ice cream or mango sorbet
- Meringues with stewed rhubarb and whipped cream
- Creme caramel

